Archive for the ‘Travel Experiences’ Category

The Magic of the Magdalen Islands

Wednesday, February 13th, 2013

By D’Arcy Kavanagh

If you’re beating your head trying to find someplace different for a Canadian holiday, consider a small archipelago of islands smack in the middle of the Gulf of St. Lawrence.

The Magdalen Islands (#YGR), or  Les Îles de la Madeleine in French, are in the middle of the Gulf of St. Lawrence.  Closer to Prince Edward Island, New Brunswick and Newfoundland, the islands are nevertheless part of Quebec. They stretch over 80 kilometres and have about 13,000 inhabitants. Tourism is a major industry with most visitors coming from Québec. Two other industries are fishing and the production of road salt.

Iles de la MadThat’s the basic info.

Here are six reasons why you might want to consider a visit to the Iles:

  • Scenery. The coastline of these islands is simply spectacular with stunning bays, rugged cliffs and beautiful beaches. You’re also never more than five kilometres from the sea.  In fact, there’s one stretch of highway on the way to Île de la Grande Entrée that cuts through the sea with just a few metres of sand and rock on either side. Astonishing!
  • Houses. Yes, it’s weird to mention houses as a reason to visit an area, but the homes on the islands are different from any others in Canada. They come in different sizes, shapes and colours. And they’re not in any pattern. It’s like Van Gogh painted a bunch of houses in his inimitable style and then tossed them against a hillside. While a planner would likely look at the oddball layout of the residences and scream, visitors will likely be intrigued, if not enthralled.
  • Seafood. If you like lobster, you’re in heaven. And the price for lobster on the islands is generally very, very low. As for the rest of the seafood, it’ll keep you drooling throughout your visit. As will the rest of the culinary offerings on the various menus; the Madelinots love good food.
  • Activities. With the great coastline, the islands offer world-class sea kayaking plus windsurfing and kitesurfing. And terrific cycling. Not to mention sandcastle-building. Kids of all ages will be easily amused. And despite being so far from any bright lights, the islands offer plenty of evening fun.
  • Storms. They don’t come too often from late spring through early autumn, but if one does, pick a dry spot, and watch how magically the clouds and sea change. Make sure you have a camera nearby. (Over the last four centuries, there have been hundreds of shipwrecks nearby.)
  • The welcome from the Madelinots. In classic French style, they are slightly reserved, but more than happy to help make you feel at home, even if you speak minimal French.Iles de lad Mad2

You can reach the islands by plane from Montréal, Québec City and Gaspé. However, most people come by ferry from Souris, P.E.I. If the day is nice, the ferry journey is exquisite, offering a lengthy view of the lovely P.E.I. coast and then following up with a picturesque entry into the islands. It’s a trip you likely won’t forget for a very long time. You can also take a weekly ferry/cruise ship from Montréal or Chandler on the Gaspé Peninsula. Cruise lines are also starting to understand the attractions of the islands.

And if you’re wondering about a winter holiday, the islands are equally as spectacular when covered with snow.

The Islands’ website: http://www.tourismeilesdelamadeleine.com/magdalen-islands/atrim-ang-696-home.cfm

 darcy@wowcommunications.ca

Flea Markets in Paris

Friday, February 8th, 2013

By D’Arcy Kavanagh

You’re off to Paris and looking for something different to do.

Think flea markets – and book stalls. Sound silly?  It’s not if you consider you’ll encounter some of the city’s history, meet interesting people and do it close to wonderful architecture.

The city’s biggest flea market is actually several combined markets in the northern edge of Paris by the Porte de Clignancourt. You can encounter up to 3,000 stalls offering everything from  clothing to antiques, junk to small treasures.  Nicknamed #Les Puces (the Fleas), it’s open Saturday, Sunday and Monday.

But I have a better plan for you and it keeps you in the historic part of Paris.

On a Saturday morning, starting in the Marais district on the right, walk toward the Palais-Royal not far from the Louvre. Pretty soon you’ll start bumping into one flea market after another.

The last time I did the walk, I found a leather-bound Jules Verne novel dating back 120 years. I paid 5€ for the book which was in pristine condition. More little treasures followed.

Hundreds of locals were walking about, chatting merrily away, everyone seemingly in a good mood.

Another couple of blocks, another flea market.  More great surprises – hundred-year-old pendants, old albums, a gramaphone, all kinds of trinkets dating back to 1900.

It was a great way to get a little exercise and be entertained.

And when I chatted with some of the folks behind the stalls, they didn’t give me the hard sell. In fact, a few were more interested in relating the history behind an item than making a pitch for purchase. They might have been anxious about making some needed money, but they didn’t show it.

When I reached the Seine, it was time to wander by the stalls on the river’s edge.Shoppers by Seine book stall

These stalls on both left and right banks have shown up in endless photos and movies about Paris. Woody Allen’s Midnight in Paris showed the Seine stalls to great effect.

They’re part of the city’s cultural fabric. The prime locations are handed down generation to generation although increased taxes are threatening some stall owners.

For many years, the stalls featured only books. Now, besides books both hard and soft-covered, you’ll find new and old posters, records, CDs, and tourist items such as key chains and postcards.

Take your time. The stall folks don’t mind you poking about.

And look around while you’re strolling. You’ll be right by some of the city’s architectural treasures.

When you’re finally tired of all your shopping, find a nearby café and relax with a glass of wine or a pastis or a beer. And watch the world go by.

You’ll be glad you took the less hectic shopping path.

How to Enjoy Venice

Monday, January 14th, 2013

By D’Arcy Kavanagh

Venice is magical, but it’s easy to get overwhelmed by the crowds, attractions, noises, complexity of finding anything and, of course, the sheer beauty of it.

Most first-time visitors go to the standard tourist stops: Doges Palace, Rialto Bridge, St. Mark’s Square, St. Mark’s Cathedral and the Campanile. If you haven’t been there, you need to check them out. They’re justly famous.

After that, here are five ideas to relax among the crowds and get a sense of what makes Venice tick.

  • Take the vaporetti. They’re the water buses that travel not just throughout the city but out to the lagoon and the island of Lido. This way, you can jump off whenever you feel like it. If you’re in town for a few days, the best idea is to get a three-day pass for 35 Euros or one for seven days for 50 Euros. You’ll stand most of the time but who cares when the views are always wondrous. And you’ll be rubbing shoulders with locals.
  • Walk around the city just after sunrise. The shops and most of the cafes and restaurants won’t have opened, but it’s still a fascinating time to be around because this is when this unique city comes alive with deliveries, pickups and all kinds of daily tasks. If you’ve ever wondered how Venice operates without cars and trucks, a lengthy stroll at sunrise will show you.
  • Sit outside in a small square/piazzale for two hours or more. The city has scores of these and they’re usually populated by locals. Watch Venetian life away from the big sights. And if there’s a café there, indulge in a drink and maybe a meal.
  • Make an effort to get lost. It’s easy to get turned around and dismally lost in this city of twisting laneways, endless bridges and miserable signage. Many tourists get incredibly frustrated by that. My recommendation is take a day and don’t try to find anything. Just walk and every time you bump into someplace you know, turn around and get lost again. The city doesn’t have a dull corner. If you’re not bound by destinations, you can enjoy everything Venice offers.
  • Take a vaporetto to Lido. This way, you go right across the lagoon which will provide you views you will never forget. As for Lido, it’s an island with 20,000 residents – and cars and trucks – and one exceptionally long beach. Make a day of the trip.

Great European Small Cities

Monday, December 31st, 2012

By D’Arcy Kavanagh

It’s popular for people to pick their favourite movies, CDs, concerts, places. So, in keeping with that tradition and after 35 years of European travel, I’m offering My Top 10 Small (40,000-99,000 population) European Cities. Here they are in no order of preference:

  • #Venice, Italy. Many might think it’s much larger but the historical part has a population of 60,000. They get to live in the world’s most unique, magical, quirky city. Worth endless visits.
  • #Blois, France. Sitting by the Loire River, this community of 46,000 was first mentioned 1,500 years ago. Rich in history, stately Blois is dominated by its spectacular Chateau de Blois.
  • #Passau, Germany. Called the “City of Three Rivers” because it has the Danube, Inn and Ilz rivers flowing by, it’s a gorgeous community of 51,000 with a world-class Old Town.
  • #Gouda, Netherlands. There’s far more to this city of 71,000 than cheese. It’s a bustling market town with lovely canals, funky side streets and a market square with a gothic city hall.
  • #Civitavecchia, Italy.  A busy port for cruise ships, this city of 52,000 has a vibrant downtown, the imposing Cathedral of San Francesco d’Assissi and historical connections to the Roman Empire.
  • #Bath, England. Stately, elegant and imposing beyond its population of 84,000, Bath has Roman ruins, great theatres and the stunning Bath Abbey. You can lose yourself here for weeks.
  • #Hasselt, Belgium. Founded in the 7th century, it has been an important community throughout the ages. Hasselt (pop. 74,000) has a terrific, lively downtown and lots of green areas.
  • #Antibes, France. Forget its more famous neighbor of Cannes. This city of 77,000 has a stirring Old Town, a great Picasso museum, superb beaches and a daily market that’s a blast.
  • #Girona, Spain. With 97,000 residents, Girona in northeast Catalonia is a treasure with its beautiful, historical downtown. Also, a hotbed for professional and amateur cyclists.
  •  #Perth, Scotland. Located by the River Tay, this city of 45,000 is rich with Scottish history. Nearby is Scone Abbey, home of the Stone of Destiny where Scottish kings were crowned.

Travel aromas

Friday, December 28th, 2012

By D’Arcy Kavanagh

A blog about memorable travel aromas?  Well, since many of our memories are connected to our sense of smell, then it’s appropriate, especially during this season of remembering.

So, without further ado and in no order of preference, here are my Eight Great Travel Aromas for a Touring Cyclist that hopefully you will encounter to create your own travel memories that can last a lifetime. By the way, each of the areas associated with an aroma is worth a visit for a score of other reasons as well.

  1. Field smells in the Yorkshire Dales of England in spring. Yes, I’m talking cows and goats and even pigs. Pungent? You bet. Bucolic? Without question. But the richness of these smells is always fresh and reminds you that you are far removed from the smog of the cities, and in some of England’s most beautiful countryside where the cycling is challenging but rewarding.
  2. Wet leaves in Vancouver in fall. After the temperature has dropped to the low teens in late September and October, the leaves drop and, thanks to plenty of moisture, stay wet on the ground, creating an open-air perfume that is intoxicating in this verdant community. By the way, the best place for such aromas is to ride around the Endowment Lands around the University of British Columbia, going along Southwest Marine Drive and then around UBC before plummeting to Jericho Beach. If the day is clear, you’ll also be greeted by truly world-class views of mountain and sea merging.
  3. Shoreline along coastal Prince Edward Island in spring. There will be seaweed and maybe some driftwood (although driftwood is more a West Coast thing). Either way, the scent will be of the sea – rich and strong and evocative. And in case you’re wondering, just about any stretch of P.E.I. coast will do the trick.
  4. Boiled grains in Passau, Germany. Beer-making in Germany is an enormous business. However, to combine smelling the richness of boiled grains for beer with enjoying spectacular scenery, go to the Hacklberg Brewery in the north part of this city of 50,000 in the very southeast corner of Germany and let your nose guide you around. If you go in the afternoon in summer when they’re releasing the aroma from a new batch, your nose will likely thank you and, if you’re beer fan, so too will your thirst since there’s a lovely, tranquil biergarten across from the brewery.
  5. Peat in Connemara. I could have said go to the Scottish Highlands to catch the thick, pungent smell of peat being burned, but I’m recommending the rugged, desolate region of Connemara in northwest Ireland for the maximum effect. In view of either mountains or coast, you’ll smell peat – spring and fall are best – and you’ll wish you could spend just one night in an abode where peat dominates. And if you ride by someplace using peat, you will wish you could bottle it for those cold winter nights back home.
  6. Heather in the Scottish Highlands. Scotland’s patches of heather in the Highlands can take your breath away when you see them set against a background of rolling hills and a castle dating back a thousand years. When you smell the earthy, faintly spicy heather as you ride by, you’ll wish you could capture the aroma and dab a little behind each ear. Memorable and intoxicating. The best time? July through early autumn.
  7. Tulips in the Netherlands. A single tulip doesn’t provide much aroma. But 10 billion of them in the southwest area of the Netherlands in April and early May can create an astonishing memory. I wasn’t keen on riding by tulip fields the first chance I had, but I went along and have been glad ever since. Besides the gentle scent that surrounds you, there are a score of colours as far as the eye can see when you ride through this 40-km-long stretch. Not to be missed.
  8. Lavender in Provence. You’ll find the world’s best lavender fields in Provence in France in July and August. Ride through this magical area and you’ll understand why the scent remains passionately popular and why this part of France is so captivating. Chateaus, picturesque villages, stunning hill towns, glorious natural landscape – and lavender. You could build an entire holiday around lavender and not be disappointed for a second.

The Glencoulee Band

Friday, March 4th, 2011

http://www.wowcommunications.ca/darcy.html

 

Scotland – exploring the outer limits

Tuesday, April 20th, 2010

By D’Arcy Kavanagh

scotland-bike1

If you’re looking for a wee escape from life’s non-stop challenges, try the Outer Hebrides off the west coast of Scotland. It’ll take some effort to get there, but it’ll be worth while.
The reasons for making the trip are varied and numerous. First, the 5 ½ ferry ride from Oban on the mainland to Lochboisdale in South Uist passes by some spectacular islands (Mull, Eigg and Rhum among them), leaving you with a distinct feeling that you’re leaving civilization behind. Next, the two Uists – south and north plus neighbouring islands – are not just gloriously remote but remarkably beautiful in a wild, moor-like way. Then there are the people who seem to possess a droll sense of humour about almost everything, especially the “mainland” which is held in some contempt. You’ll also get introduced to island politics with locals praising their region while disparaging – with wit – other islands in the area.
My wife and I do our traveling by bike. Touring the Outer Hebrides by bike isn’t for everyone, given the frequent gloom and rain. However, there’s not a dull kilometre anywhere. Moreover, if enjoying some wild and vacant area that looks like it hasn’t changed in a couple of million years works for you, then these islands should prove fascinating.
Finally, there is the history of the islands. It’s long and rich. Arguably, the most unique story involves a WWII cargo ship that went aground off South Uist. Its main cargo? Hundreds and hundreds of bottles of single malt whiskey. In those days, the region was extremely religious – it still is but to a lesser extent – and drinking alcohol wasn’t approved of. Still, a bunch of islanders from South Uist and neighbouring Eriskay grabbed as much whiskey as they could and hid it from the authorities. In some cases, they buried it but only after drinking enough beforehand that they couldn’t recall where they had put their treasure. Some of them were apprehended by the police with four being charged and convicted of crimes relating to the incident. Mackenzie Compton recounted the story in a book which was turned into a movie. Today, in both South Uist and Eriskay, that episode in Hebridean history remains fresh.
So, for an unusual escape, try the Uists and Eriskay. Have a wee whiskey in a sleepy pub. Sit and watch a storm drop down over a nearby hill. Engage a local about which part of the Outer Hebrides is the most interesting. Smell the sea and earth. And keep reminding yourself that, one day, you’ll have to go home.

From Nice to Monaco – Some magic cycling

Tuesday, April 20th, 2010

by D’Arcy Kavanagh

nice_monico

The 20 kilometres of the French Riviera from bustling Nice to hyper-expensive Monaco are jammed with people, buildings and vehicles.

But what a place to cycle!

Yes, you read that correctly. This busy, overpriced chunk of coast offers some wonderful riding, for the average cyclist to the racer interested in testing legs and lungs.
The reasons are varied. First, you have the weather which is usually warm and sunny from late April to mid October. Then you have the neighbouring sea which is stunningly azure in colour. Now, add in some small towns that are great for visiting. For example, Eze, stuffed on a hilltop and minutes from Monaco, is renowned for its perfume, but provides some wonderful views of the rugged terrain.

Finally, there are the different routes. For example, you can take the low road from Nice through Villefranche sur Mer onto Beaulieu and then follow it all the way to Monaco; the route has a couple of hills but nothing that causes any pain. The Middle Corniche is much more demanding, but provides stunning vistas. Then you have the High Corniche where some of the world’s greatest cyclists train; the climbs are tough but the views are simply world class.

With some planning, you can ride 60 or 70 km in a day without covering the same terrain. You’ll do some hills, including the occasional steep one, but you’ll won’t mind when you have so much beauty around you.

And if you’re wondering how cycling mixes with all that traffic, don’t fret. The French love cycling and you can ride on a series of bikepaths beside most main arteries. Surprisingly, if you don’t mind some climbing, you can take detours and soon find yourself in a quiet, secluded area that seems a world removed from downtown Nice or the harbour of Monaco.

Then at the end of a good day’s riding in this part of France, you can relax at a nice, inexpensive café – by Riviera standards – and tell yourself, as you bathe in the warmth and enjoy the glorious coastal scenes before you, that life can be just fine.

Lethbridge not friendly to bicycles

Tuesday, December 15th, 2009

 

Thanks to Em for allowing us to reprint this letter she sent to the Lethbridge Herald

Re: City decides on third bridge location

Dear Editor

As someone who participated in the River Crossing Advisory Committee I was pleased to see that common sense has prevailed to some degree in the matter of the third river crossing (The Lethbridge Herald, City decides on third bridge location, December 1, 2009). The Lethbridge Herald also reported that the need for a third crossing could be delayed or avoided “if there was a significant change in the way residents choose to travel within the city.” I suspect the original wording in the recommendations from the Committee represents not so much an exhortation to residents to hop on their bicycles as it is an appeal to the City to change the way it develops: halting urban sprawl so that exclusive reliance on the automobile is not required, and preferring medium density housing and mixed use developments so that people live closer to amenities and services. Without these critical components, a change in transportation patterns is highly unrealistic and a costly third crossing is inevitable. The change that is required to avoid a third river crossing, or to avoid traffic snarls, for that matter, cannot be pinned solely on the residents of Lethbridge. This city has been developed around the automobile and that is what fundamentally needs to change.

Em Pijl-Zieber

Beauty and the Bike

Thursday, December 10th, 2009

Absolutely great video of how Europe is trying to get more “girls” to ride bikes.
Why can’t Canada see this!

http://la.streetsblog.org/2009/12/01/girls-try-bikes-discover-new-freedom/

Paris!

Thursday, November 5th, 2009

dk-paris1I just so wish that I was in Paris right now and if I win from the lottery ticket I’m going to buy, then D’Arcy and I will be in Paris for Christmas! Ha.

This is a picture of D’Arcy with his rented Velo. Sure would like to be back there… summer or winter.

Forward thinking Vancouver

Friday, May 8th, 2009

By Lynda Kavanagh aka The “WOW” Gal

Congratulations to Vancouver City Council as they voted in May 2009 to add more room for cyclists on the Burrard Street Bridge. The west southbound curb lane leaving downtown will now be converted into a southbound bike lane between Cornwall Avenue and Pacific Street.

Northbound cyclists will use the sidewalk on the other side of the bridge, while the west sidewalk will be for pedestrians. Yup this does remove one lane for the drivers, but cycling in Vancouver has become very popular for commuting, health and leisure.

Airline tips:

Wednesday, April 8th, 2009

We are going to try to keep this section active with tips that we can offer in dealing with airlines during instability:

Areoplan:
Did you know that when you use your Areoplan card, you automatically receive $500,000 in commmon carrier accident insurance. Also included are a number of other travel insurance benefits and a travel concierge service.  New card members get 15,000 points (you need to have 25,000 to fly anywhere in North America. Check the fine print: http://www.aeroplan.com

Toronto airport:
If you are travelling with bikes or over sized luggage (golf clubs, baby carriers, etc) make sure you have 3 hours in between transfer flights or you may not arrive with your luggage.

Nice, France airport:
This is one of the nicest airports to fly into. It is small and very centrally located for connecting flights – compared to the huge Paris airports.

Stay here if you are in the area.

Wednesday, April 8th, 2009

If you are looking for some interesting hotels/ motels or accommodations. We are going to begin posting some of our favourites to this section of the blog.

Venice, Italy: Hotel Abbazia
Formerly a monastery, this is a must if you stay in Venice. Not only is the inside of the hotel spectacular, but it is located conveniently close to the train station, so you don’t have to drag your luggage too far. When you are there, say hi to Alvice for D’Arcy. http://www.abbaziahotel.com

Cote d’Azur, France (French Riviera): Hotel Belles Rives
Formerly the home of F.Scott Fitzerald, it calls itself a art deco hotel because it is full of famous art. Expensive for sure but can’t beat that private beach. http://www.bellesrives.com

Paris, France: Hotel Mercure Montmartre
Great location right in the Montrmartre district, close to subway, velob rentals (bicycles), shopping and trendy restaurants. Check out the buffet in the corner building – great for a healthy and inexpensive lunch or supper. http://www.mercure.com/gb/hotel-0373-mercure-paris-montmartre/location.shtml

Bike Paths – are they worth the cost presentation

Saturday, April 4th, 2009

lynda-know-no-fear-cycling-paris
(click on this link to show video (then another window opens and click on it again) Sorry for all the clicking but it will be worth it

- Lethbridge Public Library
- 7 – 9pm Community Room, May 11
- Please join us for a discussion on Cycling paths and the health, environmental, tourism  and economic benefits.

If you would like this presentation shown in your area, give us a call. It is packed full of pictures and strong statistics about how bike paths can create income for a community. lynda@wowcommunications.ca

Fine-tune your Audience

Thursday, March 12th, 2009

By Lynda Kavanagh

We all know that defining your target audience is a must for all businesses -  big or small, but it still comes as a surprise to me when businesses tell me they are marketing to  “everyone”.  Yikes, this is almost a recipe for disaster or bankruptcy.

I always respond with, “If you are marketing to everyone, then how large is your budget?” 

Marketing to everyone is simply too expensive, and, you still aren’t going to reach everyone. Take my Mom for example. She loves Tiger Woods. She watches him every time he is on the TV. What do we know about Tiger and Nike? He’s got the Nike swoosh all over him. 

Do you think my Mom knows, or cares what the Nike swoosh is all about? Not on your life! She is not “getting” Nike’s message because she is not interested in their products. But hey, they proudly say they have a product for “everyone”.  

So even Nike can’t reach “everyone” and they spend billions of dollars to try to reach to. The most important reason for fine-tuning your audience is simply because it is just more cost effective and message effective.

Think of a lake in your community.  Now, picture that lake when the water is like glass. (Ha, I hear you – in southern Alberta that does not happen very often… but run with me here!) 

What happens if someone throws a rock into the lake? You’ll get a rippling circle around where the rock entered, right? That’s the biggest splash. Then the ripple starts to move away from the biggest part of the splash. It now covers a wider area, but the ripple gets smaller and smaller.  

That’s like marketing. Okay, you’re not seeing the connection?  Often when we try to “talk” to too many people, our message gets so broad that it dilutes what we are trying to say.   (ie the further away from the centre of our rock splash, the less likely we are to cause any impact on people) We really want to consider our target audience as the people we can make the biggest “splash” with. 

The key to marketing is finding ways to talk directly to those people who are most likely to buy your product or service. This method, is not only the most effective, it’s also the easiest as you don’t really have to do too much selling. Once the people who are most likely to benefit from your product or service, know about it, then they will buy. No convincing involved. 

How do you fine-tune your audience? Find out what problem, hurt, pain or discomfort your product or service will fix, in the mind’s of your customers, then find out what media they are paying attention to, and put your message into that media. They’ll hear it, they’ll respond to it and you’ll benefit from it. It’s just that simple. 

Dilute the message, by trying to talk to too many people or with mass mediums and you’ve just got yourself a splashy ad – that is a cost, not an investment.

If you are struggling with defining your target audience, you may be interested in our Sales Audio CD, that really helps you pinpoint who you should be talking to. http://www.wowcommunications.ca click on the WOW Store

Great Canadian Pubs

Thursday, March 12th, 2009

by D’Arcy Kavanagh

OK, time for some great Canadian pubs on the country’s east and west coasts. After all, when you’re on the road, a visit to a great pub is time well spent.

The East Coast
1.    O’Reilly’s in St. John’s, Newfoundland. The place isn’t the best appointed and actually looks a little weary. The menu isn’t anything extraordinary although the food is tasty and hefty in proportions. This pub is special for its Newfoundland-party atmosphere and its love of Celtic music. I doubt there’s another pub anywhere in the world with the possible exception of Cruse’s in Ennis, Ireland where there’s more great Celtic music to be heard and where people have as much fun. If Heaven has a pub, it’s O’Reilly’s on George Street.
2.    Churchill Arms in Charlottetown, P.E.I. The capital city of Canada’s smallest province has several great pubs, but this long, narrow establishment downtown is something special although it doesn’t look it. The food is superb – try the fried Mars bar if you’ve got a sweet tooth – and the clientele provide a “my local” feel to the surroundings. Then there’s the music. Richard Wood, who’s been an owner, also happens to be a world-class Celtic fiddle player. If he and some of his friends make it a music night, you want to be at the Arms. But get there early; if they’re playing, the Arms is the most popular place to be in town.
3.    The Three Triangles in Halifax, Nova Scotia. Halifax has plenty of great pubs but this is my favourite. The food is always top notch, both in taste and portions. The music is frequent and usually superb, especially since two great musicians own the place. But it’s the atmosphere that distinguishes it. When you walk in, you feel like you walked into a neighbourhood party. You may not know the people, but you think you probably should.

The West Coast
1.    The Wolf and Hound in Vancouver, B.C. Located on West Broadway, this pub has been THE place for Celtic music in Vancouver in recent years. Vancouver has scores of great pubs, but this quaint place has developed a well-earned reputation for not just its music but for its superb menu and cozy nook-and-cranny atmosphere. When there’s a music “session” going on, you want to be here, listening, supping on some of its great beers and enjoying some first-class cuisine.
2.    The Bard and Banker/The Irish Times in Victoria, B.C. Owned by the same company, these two richly decorated Irish pubs on Government Street are usually busy and for good reason; they offer great food, a terrific range of beers including several of the distinguished local brews and tons of live music. You can get tucked into a snug in either pub and forget there’s an outside world.
3.    Garrick’s Head Pub in Victoria, B.C. This pub in Bastion Square in the downtown is the surprise one on the list although it goes back to 1867. It’s not flashy, not lively with music and not large.  The beer is always good, though, and the meals on the menu, while not haute cuisine, are always huge and great tasting. Those last characteristics make it somewhat special, but it’s the mood you encounter in here that puts it on the list. The staff are truly friendly and, heck, everyone is in a good mood, regardless of where they’re 20 or 80. Maybe there’s something in the beer. Maybe it’s something in the walls from countless former visitors. But I challenge you to find a friendlier, more relaxed pub anywhere on the West Coast.

Movie review – Yes Man

Tuesday, January 13th, 2009

By D’Arcy Kavanagh
A few years ago, Jim Carrey lost his mojo with audiences in a bid to be recognized as a serious screen presence. While he demonstrated his talents extend far beyond Ace Ventura-type of efforts, his audiences stayed away in huge numbers. Now the original Carrey is back, over the top, zany and rubbery in Yes Man, a comedy that strikes the funny bone just enough to make the movie a decent viewing experience.
Carrey is Carl Allen, a bank loan officer who takes out his depression over a broken marriage on just about everyone in his line of sight, especially folks seeking some financial aid. He’s basically given up on life, content to watch old videos until he has to go to bed and start another dreary day. These first few scenes provide the story backdrop, but are so heavy with negativity that they come perilously close to turning off an audience.
But then Carl is dragooned by an acquaintance to a self-help seminar where he accepts that the key to life is to say “yes” to life – all the time. At this moment, the movie switches into gear and the laughs start with Carl doing anything but say “no” to an experience. While clearly preposterous in some of his actions, Carl’s new love of life is energizing. Unleashed, Carrey turns Carl into one of his pantheon of Most Goofy Characters.
The plot is predictable as Carl meets and falls for a scooter-riding, avantgarde musician-artist, delightfully portrayed by Zooey Deschanel – remember the name because she’s destined for bigger things – who becomes a little overwhelmed by Carl’s wacky qualities. You know the bit – boy finds girl and so forth.
Carrey is like Robin Williams, another film comedian with a hunger for dramatic recognition. In a comedy, they can go far beyond the “danger zone” in what to try on screen. But thank goodness that the two of them occasionally try because the state of screen comedy otherwise is at a painfully low level with movies fixated on an abundance of coarse language and an overload of jokes involving bodily fluids. A throwback Carrey comic character is a welcome sight even if the cinematic fare he’s in isn’t anything special.
Travel Tip: Carl and his lady love head out for a wild weekend to Nebraska. Yup, the American heartland. That part of the world doesn’t have the cache of Paris or the French Riviera, but it shows you can have fun even in places where there’s not a hill to be seen. Southern Alberta, where this review is being written, has a ton to offer the truly curious – special carriage museums, dinosaur riverbeds, ghost towns.

Movie review – Valkyrie

Tuesday, January 13th, 2009

By D’Arcy Kavanagh

Tom Cruise has done period piece films before (Far And Away, The Last Samurai) and he’s made the mistake to tackle the past again with the Second World War thriller Valkryie. The problem isn’t that he doesn’t try; instead, he works so hard in Valkrie that his earnestness dominates the screen. It’s just that Cruise, who has undeniable talents, is a truly modern actor, someone who provides nuances from the digital, politically correct world of today and not from the cultures of different times.

Cruise is at the epi-centre of this well-produced, real-life story about a 1944 plot to assassinate Adolf Hitler. Cruise is German war hero Col. Claus von Stauffenberg who has lost an eye, a hand and his loyalty to Hitler’s cause. So, taking enormous risks to not just himself but to his family, he meets with like-minded German officers in a bid to kill Hitler and start peace negotiations with the Allies who are on their way to final victory. While he’s a colonel surrounded by more senior officers, Stauffenberg is the most relentless in pursuing the plan and he becomes the unofficial leader of the plotters. It all happens with so much speed that Stauffenberg seems surrounded by fellow officers who seem more than happy to acquiese to anyone with a decent idea.

The challenge in such a film is everyone coming into the theatre knows the plot didn’t work. So, how do the filmmakers build the action when the conclusion is foregone? In 1973, another film facing a similar challenge, Day of the Jackal, had the same task; it told the supposed real-life story of a plot to knock off Charles de Gaulle. That production was so tautly directed and acted that it stands up as one of the great political thrillers ever made.

But Valkyrie, though, just doesn’t muster the same energy as Jackal. It does a good job of recreating the era, but, in the end, it’s sabotaged by too much Cruise and not enough of the other actors who include such formidable talents as Kenneth Branagh, Bill Nighy, Tom Wilkinson and Terence Stamp. While the historians might conjecture what would have happened if the plot had been successful, audiences could easily wonder how this movie might have turned out with someone else in the lead role.
Travel Tidbit: Germany has distanced itself politically from the horrors of the Second World War, but there are still places that deserve a visit. For example, the scores of military cemeteries Germany and the Netherlands tell how great were Germany’s losses. Then there’s the Dauchau concentration camp site that is devastating in its story.

Movie Review: Australia

Friday, January 2nd, 2009

By D’Arcy Kavanagh

Australia, the epic about Down Under featuring the beauties of the country and its two lead actors, is the kind of movie that hasn’t been made in a long time, either in that country or elsewhere.

Following a romance that is spectacularly predictable and a villain so cartoonish that he’d be twirling his moustache if only it was a shade longer, Australia is one part Big Screen hokum and two parts Great Intentions. It’s almost like a Hollywood product of the 1950s although it occasionally flashes a current sensibility when mentioning the assimilation issues of its aboriginal peoples. This Aussie epic wants to connect with people in other lands but, although it does prove entertaining from time-to-time, it really isn’t up to the job.

It starts off badly. Nicole Kidman, providing unintentional laughs with her caricatured portrayal of a brittle, impatient English noblewoman, is Lady Sarah Ashley who decides in 1939 to travel to the Northern Territories to deal with the ranch that consumed her husband’s life. Clearly out of her depth with the rugged folks, she makes enemies of most everyone she encounters. But when confronted by Australia’s Marlboro Man, known only as The Drover (Hugh Jackman channeling Clark Gable of Gone With the Wind), she has a change of attitude and soon she, The Drover, a half-Aboriginal lad and a handful of others are taking a herd of cattle to Darwin so they can land a big army contract since, crikey, the Second World War is on its way.

Kidman and Jackman spit and spar on the journey, but then collapse into each other’s arms, all while beating off the dastardly activities of the lead villain and his unwashed henchmen. From there, the predictability factor increases even more as war looms and love wanes.

Director Baz Luhrmann does a wonderful job of beautifying the Outback and his Darwin scenes are properly dated to that rugged community. He also keeps the pace moving along nicely with plenty of action scenes that are photographed with a panoramic view. But he’s got moments in the movie that could easily have been excised or redone including one with Villain #2, played by Australian acting icon Bryan Brown, who sits back in a chair and just starts laughing for no good reason other than he’d probably just watched some of the earlier scenes.

The performing honours don’t belong to Kidman who gets more relaxed as the movie goes along but still seems to be “acting” or to Jackman whose best work occurs with his shirt off. Instead, it’s Brandon Walters as the young half-Aboriginal lad who dominates the screen with a natural quality the others don’t provide.

For a nation that’s produced some wondrous movies in the last generation or two (Gallipoli, Breaker Morant, The Chant of Jimmy Blacksmith), Australia is the type of flag-waving epic that involves terrific homegrown talent (Kidman, Jackman, Brown and the great Jack Thompson) in a movie that looks great, but, at its core, is all Hollywood and no Australia. Too bad, mates.

Travel twist: I kept waiting for it, but the movie doesn’t have a single scene with a snake. The Northern Territories have plenty of serpents, many of them deadly, but none in this show. If you’re thinking you can traipse about the countryside Down Under without a worry about snakes, you should think again.